The Floor Man

New Blog

2011-08-29T20:36:00.000-07:00

For those of you looking to invest, check out my new blog site entitled www.americansgoldreserve.blogspot.com.

Castillian Hardwood

2010-08-07T09:56:00.001-07:00

New Castillian hardwood is now available. Post coming soon!

Lumber Liquidators Warranty Information

2010-08-04T19:04:00.000-07:00

In this article I would like to touch briefly on product warranties. Many companies these days put a large emphasis on warranties, but what do they really mean? Take a moment to read this and you will understand. I found this on the Bellawood website.

"Protection Under This Limited Warranty:
In the event any portion of the floor should fail with respect to the provisions of this warranty, Lumber Liquidators, at its sole option, will provide a store credit for the defective portion of the flooring in excess of the 5% - 10% waste factor based on the species. The store credit may be used for future purchases at Lumber Liquidators (installation not included). Store credit is the only remedy available under this limited warranty. Lumber Liquidators reserves the right to secure the services of an independent certified inspection service to inspect, remove samples for technical analysis, assess and validate reported defect claims. Lumber Liquidators is not liable for any indirect, incidental or consequential damages arising from or relating to its sale of any products.

Oh, wait there is more! You can read the rest of the warranty information and its disclaimers by clicking this link: www.bellawood.com/custserv/aboutus.jsp?pageName=Warranty

So, now that you have read that, I will say this. Like I have said in the past, If you are basing your decision to purchase a floor because of warranties and or price, you are making the wrong decision. So my next question to you is. "Does it really matter whether the product has a 50 year warranty or a 15 year warranty, if the exclusions are the same"? The 50 year sticker is merely a number. There is little to no difference, when you compare a 15 year product to a 50 year product, so what makes it better? Oftentimes, nothing. Unless of course your floor is Acrylic impregnated and there are only a few of those out there in the market. There are other factors which make one floor better than another, but it's not because it has a 50 year warranty, that I can guarantee.

So the next time you are in the market for floor covering, buy from someone you like and someone you feel you can trust to stand behind the product and their installation. The value in the whole floor covering purchase and experience is not in its warranties, but rather in the relationship built between two people with a common goal. The common goal is to have a quality product at a fair price, featuring quality service, professionalism, installation and value.

In closing, I will say this. "Buyer Beware"
Regards,
The Floor Man

Market Conditions and the return of "Floor Man"

2010-08-02T18:38:00.000-07:00

It has been almost a year since I have written anything, so let me begin by saying thank you to those who have visited my page in the past. I hope the info I have provided you has helped you to stay informed. Whether you are a consumer, contractor, or retailer; all the information on this site is designed to help everyone. Over the past 9 months I have spent a lot of time trying to analyze and adapt to changing market conditions. Which brings me to the topic of my new post; "Market Conditions". During these tough economic times, where prices on materials/labor continue to fall and competition becomes more fierce, we all must change our habits quickly. Retailers are starting to change the way they go market with new products and are starting thinking outside the box so to speak, in order to bring in new business. The traditional method of advertising ie. newspaper, local advertising publications, and media is just not cutting it anymore. For a retailer to be successful, it needs to be in front of customers and the traditional method is just not working like it used to. Here are a few suggestions I have for bringing about new business. I have also added some tips for contractors and homeowners. Hopefully this information will benefit those who read it.

Retailers:
1. Home Shows: This particular tactic may very well be, the best way to advertise your business and get in front of the customer. Remember, consumers who attend these shows are there for a purpose and are in the preliminary stages prior to purchase. The "Home Show Method" is a great way to get leads.
2. Craigslist: With prices dropping like they have been, consumers are taking advantage of these deals that can be found online. Give this one a shot! The best part about it, is that it is free advertising.
3. Private Sales: This is generally a 1-2 day sale that is by invitation only. Direct mailers are usually mailed out to homes, that are chosen by zip codes. In my opinion direct mailers are much better than advertising publications, as small ads are easily over looked. This is an in your face approach. Private sales can be extremely successful, especially when factory/distributors reps are there to help sell and to give additional discounts. I have sealed a lot of deals in the past by helping during home shows and private sales. Trust me, they work and they will bring in traffic to your retail location. We all know that the hardest part of making a sale is getting the customer in the store. This method works very well, I recommend it highly.
4. The Beat The Street Approach: I have used this method personally while in retail and it works. This method is somewhat unconventional, but it is another inexpensive way to advertise. I recommend making your own sales flyers for what I call "Beat The Street Approach". Flyers can be made up using Microsoft Word, add a little word art in there and your done. There are many different things you can do with this program, to make your flyer stand out. Once the flyers, are printed you can begin beating the streets, so to speak. Have you ever really paid attention to how many cars can be found in a Wal-Mart parking lot. Here is another idea. Print up about 1000 business cards and start hitting the neighborhoods. All you need is a little scotch tape and business cards. I have personally taped several hundred business cards to the front of mail boxes. Most people will keep business cards and when they need flooring they are going to be thinking of you first. Most people do not want to work this hard, which is why you should take advantage of it.
5. Social Networking: Twitter, Facebook and Myspace are quickly becoming a viable advertising platform and again its free. One of the best things about it, is that it reaches so many people and it is easy to do.

Flooring Contractors: The single best way to make a living by installing floors is by being known as the best at what you do. Here is a couple of ways to hone in your skills.
1: Seminars: Contractors should attend as many of these as possible. Many factory and technical representatives are there to help you be successful. Installation methods change from product to product and as new products come out into the market, Installation techniques should be modified from time to time.
2. Associations: Become certified, associations like the Carpet and Rug institute, the NWFA (National Wood Flooring Association) and others can provide you with the proper training, certifications and the latest methods of installations. It will also boost your confidence. Certifications give contractors the stamp of approval, so to speak and also gives the consumer confidence in you.
3. Labor Warranties: One year labor warranties don't mean much to consumers, however how do think the consumer will respond, if you were to offer them a 10 year warranty? For instance, when a competitor comes in after you and only offers the consumer a one year labor warranty and you have offered them a 10 years, who do you think they are going to want to install their floors. Yes, you. This particular tactic works and should be used. After all one year labor warranties don't mean anything in a court of law, for many states. You can learn more about this in my post titled "Labor Warranties". These are a few simple ideas and will help you be more professional in your approach than the next guy. Following these few tips will help keep you from lowering your labor rates and give you the need to get the job done.

Consumers: or you it is still a buyers market. However, it has its good points and bad points. Low pricing has its benefit, but are you getting your moneys worth. Remember, you get what you pay for. If you shop soley on price, you will find yourself buying the cheapest stuff available, but is it really worth it. Cheap products are often times just that. They are not built to perform they are built to replace. Many consumers are doing themselves a disservice by demanding the lowest price. As conscientious consumers are gobbling up the lowest priced products, wise consumers are purchasing quality floors that will last. If you, the consumer, will take the time to do a little research and educate yourself on quality, features and benefits you find yourself buying a floor that will last instead of having to replace it. You heard it here, Buyer beware.

All of the above is strictly my opinion and I cannot guarantee success, however the above methods can and will help everyone mentioned above. Should you have any additional comments or question, you can either post a comment or drop me an email at cooperjm68@yahoo.com. Thanks again for visiting my page. Look for my next post coming soon titled "Castillian Hardwood Flooring".
Regards,
The Floor Man

The Bar

2009-09-30T21:17:00.001-07:00

I know this has nothing to do with flooring, however if you are looking to make some extra money, this program can help.
Sign up using this link. www.invite5.com/30614HY
Thanks
The Floor Man

Hardwood flooring Suppliers....US vs. China and others

2009-09-17T18:04:00.000-07:00

Let me start by saying, many of the domestic manufacturing companies in the hardwood industry are playing catch-up when compared to companies overseas. Countries like China, Norway, Sweden,Canada and Italy have invested more in equipment and new technology than companies here at home. Some of the nicest hardwoods available are produced in Italy and China. Manufacturing facilities overseas have state of the art machinery and are able to produce a perfect/uniform true square edge. The US Suppliers are not able to produce their products with such precision. A complete change over of equipment would have to be done, in order to accomplish this. Another point, I would dare to say that 99 percent of all products that are made in the US, have Rotary peeled veneers. You can read more about the problem in my article titled "Rotary-Peeled vs. Sliced-Cut veneers.
This on my blog at www.the-floor-man.blogspot.com As far as toxicity, there is a certain formaldehyde during the process in which it is made in most instances, but it is usually low level amounts. Products like Mullican Hardwood is being made in Indonesia and they are formaldehyde free. Another example, DuChateau is a hardwood flooring company that produces solid hardwood in Holland. The engineered line is produced in China. The European Oak veneers are shipped overseas from Holland and sent to China, then are sold in various markets. DuChateau is a higher-end product and it is not because of shipping. It all boils down to having better equipment. Solid hardwoods that are made in China are typically made up of Chinese oaks (different grade of lumber from what we have here domestically) and Pacific birch. Both of the products have a lower Janka rating than say a Domestic white oak. Perhaps all solid hardwood sold in this country, are made and harvested here domestically. If you are in the market to buy solid hardwood, there is no need to buy Chinese products, as we have a better supply of lumber. When it comes to purchasing hardwood, pay attention to the details first. Do not base your purchase solely on price. When you purchase solely on price, you are not doing anyone any favors, including yourself.
Thanks
The Floor Man

Flooring Issues

2009-09-13T18:22:00.000-07:00

If you have ever purchased flooring before, you probably understand that it can be a trying process. The littlest things can make life difficult for everyone involved. For instance, Transition pieces for wood flooring can be very difficult to get sometimes. There is nothing worse than having a job linger because of one T-molding. Anytime someone comes into your home and tears it apart, then leaves something undone for days on end, can drive you nuts. Back orders on floor covering is another issue we all face. It seems like when a product is on back order, that it is never going to arrive. Then, all of the sudden the manufacturer tells you that it is not coming in on time. At this point the customer must choose to wait, or find another product. This can be a real pain, which leads to an unpleasant experience. These problems are not typically the retailers fault, but they are the ones that suffer. retailers rely heavily on referrals and pride themselves on customer service. Even the smallest issue can cost a retailer big time.

Another problem this industry faces is: The installers, they run and control everything. The retailer typically does not get paid until the job is complete and is often held hostage by the installer (the installer is always looking to increase his bill to the retailer). Essentially, no one is happy until the job is complete and the installer has left. There are many problems within this industry, much to many to mention in this article. If I had all the answers I would be rich, the one answer I do have is: Get concrete information before signing any contract. If necessary, get the sales person to check stock ahead of time, on all Items. Speak with the installer ahead of time to make sure there is no conflict in scheduling the job and if all else fails, have a back up plan. Most problems in this industry can be avoided by asking a few simple questions, which leads me to my next post. The top ten questions to ask when purchasing flooring.

If you feel like this site has informed you, or has helped you in any way, I would like to know. Feel free to pass this site along to your friends. After all, it was built for you, the consumer.
Thanks again for visiting my page.
The Floor Man

Hardwood Acclimation

2009-09-13T17:54:00.000-07:00

Now that the poll is over, I will attempt to answer the question of how long does a solid wood floor need to acclimate. Before I give the answer to the question, I would like to cite an example. Just the other day I went on a job-site inspection, to inspect a solid hardwood floor that had cupped. The contractor was adamant that this was our (my company's) problem. During the initial phone call, the contractor insisted that we pay for and resolve this issue. The flooring contractor stated that all necessary measures were taken before hand to ensure a proper installation. Upon arriving at the job-site, I found a serious moisture problem. Problem #1. There was no vapor barrier under the house and all the ground moisture was gravitating towards the subfloor. Problem #2. The Contractor never bothered to check the subfloor to see if moisture was present. Moisture checks are to be documented (in case one has to go to court). Instead the contractor convinced the home owner to spray a closed cell foam up underneath the house, which sealed the moisture into the subfloor and cost the home-owner 2000 dollars. A plastic vapor barrier would have been much cheaper. Both the home owner and the flooring contractor stated that the wood had acclimated for approximately 2 weeks prior to installation. So the answer to the question is, there is no magic time-frame in which a solid hardwood floor must acclimate prior to installation. Instead the proper method is to check the sub-floor with a moisture meter, as well as check the hardwood flooring itself. The general rule of thumb is to compare the difference between the two. Once the wood and the sub-floor has reached its equilibrium point, installation can begin. Generally speaking, a 3 1/4 solid oak floor should be within four percentage points from the sub-floor. For example, If the moisture in the wood is reading eight percent, then the sub-floor needs to at or below 12 percent. In the scenario mentioned above the subfloor was reading 28 percent and the wood was reading seven percent. That is a difference of 21 percentage points. This floor should have never been installed.
The moral of the story, once again, be careful who you let into your home. This home owner spent 15,000 dollars to have a new hardwood floor installed and 2000 dollars for the spray foam, bringing the total to 17,000 dollars. These types of situations can be very costly, both financially and emotionally.
Should you have any further questions, don't hesitate to shoot me an email at cooperjm68@yahoo.com
Thanks,
The Floor Man

New Carpet! Buy Today

2009-08-19T21:41:00.000-07:00

If you are in the market for carpet or any other type of flooring, You are in luck!
The retail flooring business is stagnant at best, foot traffic is down and attitudes are suffering. Many retail sales people are struggling to survive. They are much more willing to negotiate right now, which makes it a great opportunity to purchase new flooring. Prices now could never be cheaper. There is essentially to much supply, but not enough demand. It is truly a buyers market. In the coming months, prices are going to remain stable, due to anticipation of the fall season. If retail traffic improves, you may find it more difficult to negotiate. When that happens the demand will grow and cause prices to climb. As consumer confidence grows, the market should find its equilibrium point, where supply equals demand. Labor is cheap now too. Many contractors are cutting rates just to put food on the table. Just remember to do one thing. Shop smart and know the products as well as its limitations. You can have a direct impact on the economy, by purchasing today!
Good Luck,
The Floor Man

Flooring Brand Names

2009-07-30T20:58:00.000-07:00

When it comes to flooring there are many important things to consider, such as price, style, function and value. Perhaps, the least important thing to consider when purchasing flooring is, its brand name. Let me explain. Have you ever heard of Bruce hardwood flooring? If you answered yes, you may be aware that Bruce hardwood is not of the highest quality and considered by many, to be an inferior product to most of its competition. Margaritelli on the other hand is one of the finest quality hardwoods on the market, but yet the least known. (Why is that)? Many manufacturers spend a lot of time trying to develop their brand names, but fall short in the sales department. Most flooring purchases today are made because of style, function, price, value, and salespeople steering the purchase, not because of brand. Hardwood flooring is a great example. Many of the well-known, domestic hardwood (Made in US) manufacturers are not able to produce the higher quality material here stateside. The majority of real high quality hardwood floors are made in Italy, Canada, Norway and yes-even China. These countries have much better equipment and thus produce a much nicer product. Carpet is a little simpler. The three major suppliers for carpet are: Mohawk, Shaw industries and Beaulieu. Each have similar products and styles available at all price points. When it comes to carpet, Shaw industries is the most popular brand name.
This does not mean that they have the best carpet. Beaulieu has a very nice product line and is less expensive, but not as well known. If the brand name is important to you, then do some research on the product you are considering and understand why you are paying for that name? Remember quality speaks loudly, while the brand name sits back quietly taking all the credit. Also, don't be fooled by big advertising. Remember, many companies will advertise and sell products, which make them the most money. Many sale Items still have a significant amount of profit in them. Retailers don't care what brand you buy, just as long as you are buying from them. If they are trying to sell you on a certain brand, find out why. Ask questions, be specific and do your homework. Thanks again for visiting my page
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Timeless Textures Birch Butterscotch

2009-07-09T17:54:00.000-07:00

July's 2009 floor of the month award has been given to: "Timeless Textures" Birch Butterscotch; by Forest Accents. This product is hand-scraped, distressed and priced to sell. The product is 9/16" thick by 5" wide and has a 3mm wear-layer. It also carries a 25 year residential warranty. Birch butterscotch is a rich deep golden brown tone, with enough color variation to go with most furniture. A very versatile and hot product on the market today. If this is not quite the right color for you, don't worry. Timeless Textures By Forest Accents has and additional 11 colors to choose from. Species such as Maple, Hickory and Walnut are also available. Recently we just added a new 1/2" product to our Timeless line and it is called Crafted Textures. This product line consists of 5 additional stained Birch products; at an even lower price point. For more info regarding this product line please visit our website at www.cwf.com. If you have any other questions or concerns, email me at cooperjm68@yahoo.com and I will try to help
Thanks for stopping by
The Floor Man

Urethane vs. Acrylic adhesives

2009-06-28T18:49:00.000-07:00

If you are about to install engineered hardwood using the glue down method, I recommend that you read this article. One of the most important factors when installing engineered hardwood is the adhesive. Using the proper adhesive is critical to a successful installation. In this article I will briefly cover the differences between Acrylic and Urethane based adhesives.

Let me start with acrylic adhesives. Acrylic adhesives are resin based and contain a certain percentage of water in them. The main problem with resin based adhesives, is the lack of tensile strength. In order for Acrylic adhesives to perform at their optimal level, the sub-floor needs to be well prepared and extremely flat. If the sub-floor is not level and flat and you choose to use an acrylic adhesive, I guarantee you will have hollow spots once the job is complete. Hollow spots are areas in which the wood floor is not adhered properly to the substrate. This problem is common and can be recognized by a popping or hollow sound as one walks across the floor. This is not an adhesion problem, but rather an installation problem. The main benefit to Acrylic adhesives is the trowel-ability and the clean-up factor. The other main benefit of acrylic adhesives is the cost. Acrylic adhesives and less expensive than its urethane counterpart.

Urethane adhesives are the preferred adhesives by most all major manufactures and should be used in most circumstances. These type of adhesives contain no water and have a much higher tensile strength than acrylics. When using a urethane adhesive it is very important to clean as you go. Urethane adhesives when left on a wood floor can cause permanent damage to the finish, making it difficult to repair. In essence Urethane adhesives are more difficult to clean, but do a better job of sticking the wood to the sub-floor. Depending on the type of urethane, there can be a significant cost difference in between them. Another downside to urethane adhesives, is that they are more difficult to spread than acrylic adhesives. Some installers will not use a urethane adhesive because, they are more difficult to spread and are harder to clean up. This is not an excuse for refusing to use them. If an installer comes into your home and wants to use an acrylic adhesive, it may be because he may be in a hurry. Remember, be very careful who you let in your home to do the work. It could cost you big time.
For additional technical info, please email me at cooperjm68@yahoo.com
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Du Chateau Hardwood Flooring

2009-06-23T17:56:00.000-07:00

If you are looking for a hardwood floor that is fashionable and designer driven and built to last, I recommend checking out DuChateau hardwood flooring. DuChateau hardwood flooring is hand distressed by exceptional craftsman by using blocks and chains to replicate the floors of centuries past. This line of hardwood flooring is treated with oil (sunflower) and waxes (paraffin, carnauba) and is available in European white oak, ash, larch and walnut. When it comes to performance, DuChateau stands up to even the most rugged traffic and the most extreme conditions. This product is recommended for both residential and commercial applications. DuChatehttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifau is available in a variety of thicknesses and styles and has many different price points available. If you are looking for something a little more custom DuChateau can handle that too. Custom floors are made in Holland and typically require a lead time of approximately 10 weeks. There are three primary collections available which are: The Terra Collection, The Chateau Collection and The Fine Sawn collection.
For more information about DuChateau, I recommend visiting their website at www.duchateaufloors.com. This website has good images and additional information about their product, so be sure to check it out.
Thanks for taking the time to visit my page
The Floor Man

Robina Laminate Flooring

2009-06-04T17:07:00.000-07:00

Custom Wholesale Flooring would like to announce our new line of laminate flooring. Robina laminate flooring is made to fit most any taste, without sacrificing style and durability/functionality and is priced very aggressively.
The first series in the line is, "The Everyday Series". This product is 8.3mm in total thickness and is available in a seven-inch single face plank, or a five-inch wide hand-scraped and distressed. The everyday series carries a 15yr residential warranty and a lifetime structural warranty.

The second series is the Heavyweight series, a true 12mm product with texture and distressing. This product has 8 colors to choose from and is AC 4 rated for residential and light commercial. The heavyweight series carries a 25-year residential warranty and is built to last. This product is a nice upgrade to the everyday series. 12mm products tend to help with sound issues and install over concrete slabs nicer. All Robina products feature either the 2G or the 5G locking system, licensed by Valinge. Robina laminate is preferred over competitors because of the locking system alone.

The third series in the line is the Designer series. This product line is available in a 12mm profile and it has 8 colors to choose from; it is registered (the actual graining of the wood is pressed into the product) and embossed, as well as hhttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifand sculpted. The Designer series also has a high gloss product, for those of you who want a product a little more luxurious. This product carries a 20-year warranty and a lifetime structural warranty.

If you would like more info about this product please visit www.robinafloors.com If you have any technical questions need installation advice, or just want an opinion. Please send an email to cooperjm68@yahoo.com
Thank you
The Floor Man

The Valinge Locking System

2009-05-25T17:52:00.000-07:00

If you are looking to purchase a new laminate or hardwood floor and you plan on doing it yourself, then I recommend buying Robina. Robina laminate and hardwood, both feature the Valinge locking system. This locking system is the best on the market today and is the easiest laminate/wood floor to install ever. Valinge produces a 2G and a 5G locking mechanism. The 5G versions are used on all 12mm laminates and all 1/2" wood products. The 2G systems are used on 8.3mm laminates and 3/8" wood products. The main difference between the 2G and the 5G is that the 5G products has a plastic clip on the end of the boards, the 2G does not. However, both locking systems work identically.
The big advantage Valinge has against its competition is that there is no need for a tapping block or hammer. This product drops and locks right into place with no beating or banging. The Unilin system requires a tapping block and hammer (which could damage the floor) and is more difficult to install. The Valinge system takes the hammer out of the installer’s hands and helps to eliminate potential problems. This locking system will literally speed up installation time by up to 50%. Even the competition (Unilin) admits that Valinge is the better more stable system.
If you have any questions, or would like any tips on installation please leave a comment or email me at cooperjm68@yahoo.com
Thanks
The Floor Man

Floor of the month

2009-05-17T18:05:00.001-07:00

This May the floor of the month award goes to Capri plank Brazilian cherry. Made by Forest Accents, this floor features a 25-year warranty, a 2mm wear-layer and is a half-inch in total thickness. The board lengths of this product are 17-84" This makes this product ideal for large rooms. Brazilian cherry is a prized hardwood from South America and will coordinate with most furniture. The color of this product ranges from a rich red and orange tone, to softer brown tones. Over time (Approximately 4-6 months) this floor will darken to a deep red color. I recommend waiting a couple of months before laying down area rugs. Laying down an area prematurely will only cause blending problems down the road. The Janka rating for this product is 2350, which is much harder than domestic oak.

Perhaps one of the most important features of this product is its price. Compared to its competition, this product is extremely well priced. I know for certain that this product is around fifty cents per square foot less than its competition at the wholesale level. You should expect to pay around $5.89 per sf for material only. This product is distributed by Custom Wholesale Floors and can be purchased through your local flooring retailer. If you are not in the southeast but would still like more info, please email me at cooperjm68@yahoo.com.

P.S. Mention my article on this blog-site and receive a discount through your retailer
Thanks again for visiting my page. I look forward to hearing from you soon
The Floor Man

Choosing a carpet

2009-05-11T19:30:00.001-07:00

With all the styles and colors available in carpeting, one can easily get overwhelmed when deciding to purchase new carpet. In this article I will try and give you enough information to help make this decision a little easier. Remember, selecting a new carpet for your home can be easy or it can be very difficult depending on your expectations.

The first thing you should ask yourself is: Is durability or stain resistance more important. If you have an active home with accident-prone children, stain resistant carpet may be more important. Generally speaking polyester carpet is the most stain resistant fiber and the easiest to clean, however it is not the most durable. Nylon carpet tends to hold up better, but is more susceptible to stains. Not all carpet fibers are created equal. I recommend taking the time to learn about the different fibers and their inherent characteristics.

Next you must decide whether you want a plush pile, frieze, or a Berber carpet. If you are in the market for a plush pile carpet, here are a couple things to consider. Number one: Consider the threads per square inch. Generally speaking the more threads per square inch, the longer the carpeting will hold up. The individual twist of each fiber is also very important. The tighter the twist, the better the fiber. A tight twist acts like a shock absorber on a car. It provides for recoil to the fiber and helps with wear resistance. A tightly twisted fiber with lots of threads per square inch is what you should look for, preferably made from nylon. Polyester carpets can have some of the same specifications, but are more prone to matting and crushing. There are two main types of plush carpeting to consider. The first is trackless (tracks less not trackless) and Saxony. Saxony carpet is the type of carpeting that shows defined vacuum cleaner marks and feels like velvet. Another question to ask is whether the carpet is a staple yarn or a continuous filament. A staple yarn will shed (causes little fuzz balls) a continuous filament will not.

Berber carpet is next on the list. This type of carpet is available with an olefin fiber content (essentially the same as polyester), sometimes mixed with nylon and nylon. Berber carpet is a loop carpet, but can also be mixed with a cut pile. This is called a cut and loop carpet. This type of carpet is usually made from nylon and is very durable. A loop pile carpet also comes in many styles and colors and can be purchased in a variety of patterns. Most loop pile carpets are made from olefin. A rule of thumb is; the bigger the olefin loop, the less resistant to wear the carpet will be. If you are going to purchase an olefin Berber, I recommend purchasing one with a small dense loop. As you can imagine, olefin is the least expensive fiber available, where as wool is the most expensive. The cost of nylon carpeting falls in between the two.

In my opinion the information stated above is far more important than color, however that is for you to decide. Remember, always ask plenty of questions and don't rush into any decisions. I hope the information in this article has helped. If you have any other questions feel free to leave a comment or send an email to cooperjm68@yahoo.com
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Selecting a hardwood floor

2009-05-11T19:05:00.000-07:00

Before you decide to purchase a hardwood floor, there some important things to know first. In this article I will cover the basics of hardwood flooring and try to make purchasing hardwood a little easier.

Hardwood flooring is an upgrade to laminate and has a variety of options. Available options are: Engineered, solid, hand-scraped, wire-brushed, distressed and traditional smooth finishes. If your home has a concrete foundation, engineered hardwood is the floor of choice. This product is made to glue down to a concrete slab and is available in many species and colors. Solid hardwood flooring is recommended for plywood sub floors and should not be glued directly to concrete. In my opinion, the single most important aspect of hardwood flooring is its hardness. With that being said, all hardwood floors will dent, some more than others. Also, hardness does not always equal durability. For instance, maple flooring is harder than oak but does not have as much graining as oak, thus making it more prone to marring and scuff marks. Harder woods that are distressed and hand-scraped are going to be the most durable. On the left hand portion of this page is a Janka chart, this chart measures the hardness of wood. If you have an active home I do not recommend purchasing American Walnut or American Cherry. These two hardwoods are essentially the softest domestic wood floors available. Hickory/Pecan are the hardest domestic woods available in the market and both are very durable. There are several domestic species to choose from, however if you cant find a domestic hardwood you like try looking at an exotic wood. Many of the exotic woods are much harder than domestics and are still very affordable. Hardwood flooring can be much more expensive than laminate, so there may be some sacrifices that need to be made. Ask yourself this one question. Is hardness and durability more important than color, or vice-versa? The finish of the product is also an important factor. The three main finishes to consider are: Water-based urethane, oil-modified, and natural oils. Water-based finishes are the most durable, however they are not always the easiest to maintain. There are three different sheen levels to consider and they are: Satin, semi-gloss and gloss. Low matte and satin finishes are becoming more popular because they tend to hide scratches better than semi-gloss or gloss finishes. Natural oil finishes are gaining popularity because of its ease of maintenance and natural look. Another thing to considered is the length of the individual planks, within the hardwood floor. Longer planks tend to look better in larger rooms. I would recommend products that are random up to seven feet. Shorter boards tend to give the floor a butcher block look and in my opinion do not look as good as the longer plank floors when finished. If you need more information or need a recommendation, I would be glad to help. Just leave a comment or send me an email to cooperjm68@yahoo.com
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Selecting a laminate floor

2009-05-05T19:15:00.000-07:00

Before you decide to purchase laminate flooring, there are a few things you should consider. I this article I am going to talk about the various types of laminate and how they suit ones needs.

Laminate flooring is quickly becoming a floor of choice for many consumers, mostly due to price and durability. The single most important factor when purchasing laminate is whether it is high or direct pressure. (Many retail sales people do not even know the difference.) I will not get into this subject to due to post length. I do recommend however checking out Wilsonart's website to learn about the differences. www.wilsonartflooring.com. The next item to consider is color. Laminate flooring has evolved in the last few years and now more colors are available than ever before. What ever color you decide, choose the color of the floor first. You can always change the color of the paint at a later point. Another question you might ask yourself is, whether or not you want a product that is hand-scraped or distressed. Distressed or hand-scraped laminate floors may just be the most durable cost effective floors in the market today. Laminate floors have evolved to the point where they really do look like real hardwood. Also, laminate flooring is available in a 3-strip profile (butcher block look), two strip and single strip. Many laminate floors now have a beveled edge giving the product a real wood look. For years a square edge laminate was all that was available. Laminate flooring is more kid and pet friendly, making it more suitable for an active home. Laminate floors are fairly easy to install, making it a great option for do-it yourself projects. One last thing to consider is the AC rating for laminate.
Laminate is rated AC1-AC5, AC1 being the least and AC5 being the most durable. Not all laminates are created equal, so be sure to ask questions before purchasing your new floor. If there were one downside to laminate, it would be that it does not add resale value to you home like real hardwood. If you are considering purchasing laminate flooring and would like some some suggestions with regard to product or color, feel free to leave a comment or email me at cooperjm68@yahoo.com.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Rotary peeled vs. Sawn Faced veneers

2009-04-26T18:39:00.000-07:00

Most veneers used for engineered hardwood flooring are either rotary peeled or sawn faced. In this article I will cover these two types of veneers and attempt to explain the differences. There are other types of veneers available for hardwood flooring; however these two are the most common.

Rotary peeled veneers are peeled from the log starting from the outside working toward the center (Similar to peeling an onion). The logs are first boiled, then peeled and pressed flat to make the veneers. The rotary peel method is the least expensive and is more prone to face checking and other problems. Face checking is when the finish starts to crack from stress within the veneer. The look of rotary peeled floors tends to resemble the look of plywood. Most of the woods flooring manufacturers in the United States use the rotary peel method.

Sawn face veneers are sawn across the log just as a solid hardwood is. It has the same visual appearance, is more dimensionally stable and less prone to face checking or other inherent problems associated with rotary peeled veneers. The Sawn face engineered hardwood is more expensive than the rotary peeled floor, however it is worth the money.

The method of cutting the hardwood veneer could be the single most important aspect of any engineered hardwood floor and should be considered. If you have any further questions you can leave a comment or send me an email at cooperjm68@yahoo.com
Thanks
The Floor Man

Rubber Flooring by Amorim

2009-04-21T19:00:00.000-07:00

Custom Wholesale proudly announces our new line of rubber flooring. Made by Amorim, this rubber floor is great for weight rooms and other sports areas. Our rubber flooring conveniently comes is four foot wide rolls, with a minimum of 30 foot lengths. Any order longer than 30 feet can be cut to order. This product also comes in 38x38 square tiles, as well as 38x38 interlocking square tiles for ease of installation.

Amorim rubber flooring can be purchased in a variety of colors. The baseline color is black, while color can be added in 10% increments. The highest percentage of color is 90% which has a 10% black base. If you are interested in something a little more custom, Amorim has that too. Amorim rubber is competitively priced and can be purchased through a local flooring retailer near you.

Thank you for taking the time to visit my webpage. If you feel there is something you would like to see covered on this page, feel free to leave a comment. Check back often for new information, as this is a work in progress.
P.S. Don't forget to vote in my latest poll.
Sincerely,
The Floor Man

American Walnut

2009-04-16T19:37:00.000-07:00

American Walnut is a prized hardwood used for furniture, flooring, rifle gun stocks and even coffins. The heartwood of the walnut tree is dark brown to purple in color, while the sapwood is a white to creamy brown color. Some manufacturers will steam the sapwood to help make the color more uniform and consistent. The walnut grain is one of the most beautiful of all hardwoods, which is very close in structure to American Cherry.

Walnut Flooring is one of the most expensive hardwoods available, along with American Cherry. Many furniture manufactures get the biggest walnut logs and rotary peel them for furniture. This is why wide width long length walnut is so expensive. Flooring manufacturers are short on supply of large walnut logs, hence the higher price. Before you get a quote for walnut, make sure you know which grade of lumber you are buying. Straight grained (quarter sawn) is the most expensive; select is a little less expensive and character walnut being the least expensive.

Walnut when used for flooring is easily milled and takes nails and staples well. It is fairly durable and finishes well. On the Janka scale walnut is rated at 1010. If you have an active home with small children and or dogs and are concerned by denting, walnut should not be your first choice. A good alternative to American Walnut is Brazilian walnut. Brazilian walnut is much harder, more resistant to denting and is similar in color. The key to purchasing any type of hardwood flooring is to know its grading and inherent value, as well as its characteristics. Flooring samples do not always show all of the true colors you can expect within a given species. If you cannot make a decision based off a flooring sample, I recommend buying a box of material to inspect the grading and color before final purchase.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Forest Accents Hardwood

2009-04-11T18:30:00.000-07:00

If you are considering purchasing hardwood flooring for your home, take a look at Forest Accents. This product line has products that start out at the entry level and end up at the high end, with many choices in between. All products come with a sawn face for a more appealing visual appearance. A sawn face is the same type of cut as a 3/4" solid hardwood floor. In this article I will cover the various product lines that can be found within Forest Accents.

The entry level product within Forest Accents is called Destin plank. This product offers three oaks in a 3" profile; with one natural red oak and two stained colors. There are also three exotics in the same profile. The exotics available are: African Cherry, African Wenge and African Mahogany. Victoria plank is an upgrade to Destin plank and is all 5" wide. All of the products available in the Victoria plank line are exotic woods from Africa. Capri plank is another 5" wide option that is also all exotic hardwoods. The majority of the lumber harvested for these floors come from South America. Exotics such as Tigerwood, Santos Mahogany and Brazilian Walnut are all available within the Capri plank line. All of the products mentioned above are smooth finished with no hand scarping or distressing. When compared to other products these products are very competitively priced.

Next on the list are hand-scraped and distressed products. Starting out with Timeless Textures; this product line has is made up of all domestic species and is all 5" wide. The 4 species available are: American Walnut, Birch, Hickory and Maple. When you compare this line to others in the market, you will find that the quality and price will be hard to beat. Tuscany Reserve is another hand-scraped product that is available in both 5" and 7" material. The product features a French bleed (blackened edge) and is available in Walnut, Cherry and Oak. Tuscany Reserve is made to recreate the look of years past and is second to none in both look and price.

If you would like to see other products made by this company or would like additional details about the flooring mentioned above please visit www.forestaccents.com
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Nylon vs. Polyester carpet

2009-04-07T20:34:00.000-07:00

Carpet comes is a variety of styles and types, but more important is the type of fiber from which it is made. In this article I will talk about the general differences in nylon and polyester carpet. Before purchasing carpet for your home, check to see what type of fiber the carpet is made of.

Polyester carpet as well as nylon, both have their advantages and disadvantages. One advantage that polyester carpet has over nylon is that it is more stain resistant. Polyester is made from plastics and resins and is considered to be a closed cell fiber.
Nylon is an open cell fiber, thus making it more susceptible to stains. Polyester is considered a "green" product; primarily it is made from recycled materials. Nylon carpet is petroleum based and is generally considered "green". Polyester carpets can be found in a variety of colors and are considered to be kid friendly.

Nylon carpet is a much better choice for an active home than polyester, as it is much more durable and less likely to show wear. Many manufactures today are further developing polyester carpets because of the cost of raw materials to produce nylon. The main problem with polyester is that it will mat and crush rather easily. Traffic patterns tend to show up much more quickly than its nylon counterpart. If you do decide that polyester is the carpet for you, I recommend getting references from consumers who have purchased this type of carpet. References taken should be from those who have had their carpet for a minimum of one year.

It is very imperative that you do as much research as possible, no matter what type of flooring you are intending to buy. This will insure your dollar is being well spent. Do not believe everything the sales person has told you. Investigate his information with your own research. Many sales people in this industry will say most anything to make a sale. Be careful what and who you buy from and get as many references as possible.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Floor of the month April 2009

2009-04-04T17:14:00.000-07:00

This month, the floor of the month award goes to Timeless Textures hickory butternut. If you are looking for a floor that is both durable and reasonably priced, this is the one for you. Made by Forest Accents, This engineered hand-scraped hardwood floor is 9/16" total thickness and is 5 inches wide. This product features a 3mm wear layer and carries a 25-year residential finish warranty, it also has a lifetime structural warranty. This product can be glued, stapled, or floated, which makes it a versatile product for most any installation. There are several things that help this floor stand out against its competition and here is why. For one; hickory's natural character helps to hide any marring or scuff marks, the color and distressing helps to hide scratches and the hardness of hickory helps to minimize denting, when compared to other woods. The reasons I have given above make this one of the hottest selling items I have today.

When shopping for flooring, be sure to compare apples with apples. Remember not all floors are created the same. When you compare this product to its competition you will find that its value and function will be hard to beat. If you would like to see other products made by this company, please visit www.forestaccents.com. For pricing and other information please consult your local flooring retailer.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Luxury Vinyl Flooring

2009-03-30T19:45:00.000-07:00

If you are looking for a floor that is both kid and pet friendly you may consider choosing solid vinyl plank or vinyl tile. This type of floor is pretty indestructible and is a great choice for an active home. Vinyl tile or plank is not only kid and pet friendly, it is also not affected by water. Vacuuming and using a damp mop can easily maintain solid vinyl flooring. Here are a couple of reasons you may consider this type of product. Solid vinyl floors are very durable and hold up well under most conditions; Solid vinyl is hypoallergenic, requires low maintenance, warm underfoot, and affordable.

These types of floors come in a variety of styles and patterns, the wood grain and tile pattern are the most popular. What ever design idea you may have, vinyl plank flooring can add the extra touch of class to your home. There are many different suppliers of solid vinyl. Armstrong, Nafco, Flexco and Konecto are some of the more common manufacturers in the marketplace. You should expect to pay a little more for luxury vinyl flooring compared to laminate, but less than most hardwoods.

No matter what type of flooring you decide to put in your home, do some research first? Take the time to learn about the product and don't rush into any decisions. Remember, having a good installer in your home ensures your money will be well spent.
A bad installer can cost everyone in the process. If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Prefinished vs. Jobsite finished floors

2009-03-26T19:52:00.000-07:00

Finishes for hardwood flooring have improved dramatically over the last several years, however one question still remains. Is a factory finish better than a site-finished floor, or vice versa? In this article I will talk about both types of finishes and then you can decide for yourself, which is better.

The main benefit to having a prefinished floor is that the finish is done under a controlled environment at the factory, thus ensuring a smooth uniform finish. Factory finished floors are usually coated using a water-based polyurethane with aluminum oxide particles suspended in the finish. Aluminum oxide when added to the finish makes the finish harder and more resistant to wear. Aluminum oxide may provide some additional abrasion resistance, however I do not believe it is any more scratch resistant than a site finished floor. The downside to aluminum oxide flooring is that they can be very difficult to refinish successfully. Strict procedures must be followed in order to refinish these types of floors.

Hardwood flooring that is finished on-site has its benefits too. Site finished floors have a tabletop appearance and are completely sealed with a polyurethane finish. Prefinished floors typically have a micro-bevel and are not completely sealed once installed. Also, if you choose to have a job-site finished floor, you can choose the gloss level before installation. Most prefinished floors generally have a semi-gloss coating, however some floors are available in a high gloss and matte finish. If you are looking for a low-matte prefinished hardwood floor, you may find it more difficult to find exactly what you are looking for. One of the most durable hardwood floor finishes that can be found today is called Traffic. This product is a water-based polyurethane that is second to none in the industry and is applied on-site by a sand and finish contractor. Traffic is a commercially rated finish made by Bona Kemi and is available in a satin and semi-gloss water-based urethane.

The only real way to tell which type of finish is better, is to look at the Taber abrasion test for both types of finishes. The Taber abrasion test is the main method used for testing the durability of hardwood floor finishes. Traffic by Bona Kemi has some of the highest Taber test results in the industry. For more information about these methods of testing visit: www.taberindusries.com Before you decide which type of finished floor you want, I recommend taking a look at a new site finished floor and one that is prefinished from the factory. I believe you will find that a site-finished floor is a nicer looking than its prefinished counterpart, however this is just my opinion.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Yarema Marquetry

2009-03-22T18:29:00.000-07:00

If you are looking for something a little different or want something more than a traditional hardwood floor, you may want to consider adding a custom border or medallion. Borders and medallions are custom made to order and can be made to fit most any floor. Yarema Marquetry takes great pride in producing the finest borders, medallions and custom parquets in the marketplace today. Yarema is made in Michigan by exceptional craftsman who understand your vision and can create an incredible piece of art, with Yarema the sky is the limit. This company has everything from nautical medallions to the most intricate parquet floors one can imagine and everything in between.

Yarema's professional staff is eager to please and is focused on 100% customer satisfaction. Exceptional quality and outstanding customer service is what makes Yarema stand out from the competition. If you would like to see some work by Yarema visit their Website at: www.yaremamarquetry.com If you are ever in the market for this type of product, I highly recommend this company. The quality and price from this company will is going to be hard to beat.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Mullican hardwood flooring

2009-03-17T21:01:00.000-07:00

With so many different manufacturers to choose from, choosing a hardwood floor can be a daunting task for most anyone. A person can easily get overwhelmed, confused, and frustrated by all of the choices available. In this article I will attempt to make that choice a little easier, I will also discuss why Mullican flooring can fit most any taste, budget, or need you may have.

Mullican flooring is made from the finest raw materials available. The flooring is made from slow-growth lumber that is harvested from the northern Appalachian Mountains and is dried and processed using the most efficient methods within the industry. Mullican takes great pride in harvesting lumber from only sustainable forests and now has a line of FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified products. Committed to preserving the environment, Mullican hardwood flooring is helping to lead the green movement.

If you are a price conscience consumer or one that likes the finer things in life, Mullican hardwood can fit the bill. Products that are available range from 5/16" engineered to 3/4" solid and everything in between. If you have something traditional in mind there any many choices available. Domestic species available include: Maple, Hickory, Walnut, American Cherry, Red and White Oak. Other products from Mullican include, hand-scraped, wire-brushed, unfinished engineered and distressed floors. Mullican Flooring has the most comprehensive line within the industry and is the largest supplier of unfinished solid hardwood in the United States. If you would like more information regarding this company please visit www.mullicanflooring.com
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Ipocork Flooring

2009-03-15T21:07:00.000-07:00

If you are looking for a product that is affordable, functional, fashionable and environmentally friendly take a look at Ipocork. This exciting product line brings unending value and durability to an array of applications. This product has 9 different selections to choose from, each with its own unique look and appeal.

Manufactured in Portugal, Ipocork is made into 12" x 36" sheets. Each sheet has a high density, water-resistant fiberboard core and is protected with a waterproof edge sealant. Ipocork also has the patented WRT (Wear resistant technology) finish, which has two coats of UV cured polyurethane and 2 layers of ceramic beads suspended in the finish for added durability. Great impact resistance and consistent surface finishing are added benefits of the "WRT" finish. This floor has a 15-year residential finish warranty and also carries a 5-year light commercial warranty. Made as a floating floor, Ipocork can be easily installed on, above, or below grade making it a very versatile product.

This product is being introduced and distributed in the southeastern part of the United States by Custom Wholesale Floors and is only sold through selected retailers. For more information regarding Ipocork flooring, please visit their website at www.ipocork.com for more information.
The Floor Man

Installer Stories

2009-03-12T20:30:00.000-07:00

For five years I worked in a retail-flooring store while attending college full time. During those five years I sold a lot of floor covering and learned a lot of things about flooring contractors in general. From time to time on this blog site, I will share some of those experiences with you. Some of these stories are quite funny some are not.

Several years ago I had a sub-contractor install carpet for a customer in which I had sold. During the morning of the installation, I remember thinking that the sub-contractor was going to screw my job up and that I was going to regret hiring this man. As I was leaving school that morning I received a phone call from the installer. The first thing he asked me was: "What rooms does this carpet need to be installed"? I had already given this man some specifics, however he failed to remember them. I immediately drove to the job-site to check on him. When I got there he had all of the small breakables and furniture moved out of the wrong rooms and was ready to nail tack strip into the wood floors. When I asked him what he was doing he said "I just realized where the carpet needs to go". Shortly after that I headed to the office for a day at work. At this point I was certain everything would be just fine and that there would be no problems.

I called the customer the next day and asked the customer how she liked her new carpet. Her response was: "The installer did a good job, but I am a little confused as to why my breakables and furniture were moved upstairs". I explained to her that there was a little mix-up as to where the carpet needed to be laid. Her next response was: "I can understand that, but what I don't understand is why the man ate my daughters birthday cake". At that point I did not know what to say to the customer, so I offered to buy her another one. She told me it was not necessary as the birthday cake was old anyway.

When I saw the installer the next day I questioned him about the cake. He responded by saying "My helper ate it". I told him not to lie and that I was sure he ate some of it too. The next words to come out of his mouth were: "Well it tasted like crap". I instructed him to never do such a thing on any of my jobs again and if he did I would not use him any more. Over time this man continued to be a problem, so I refused to give him any more work.

The moral of this story is: Don't leave old birthday cake lying around and be careful whom you let in your home.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

How to install engineered hardwood

2009-03-08T19:08:00.000-07:00

If you are considering installing engineered hardwood, there are a few things you should know. First I am going to to talk about the tools necessary to do the job, then I will get into the installation process. In this article I am going to cover the glue down installation method.

The tools necessary for installation are:
1.) Hand-scraper (used for scraping up adhesives and other contaminates from the sub-floor.)
2.) Broom and dust pan.
3.) Door jamb saw. (this tool is used for under-cutting the door facings)
4.) Trowel (used to spread adhesive)
5.) 6-8 foot straight edge. (used for checking the sub-floor for imperfections or undulations.)
6.) Chop/Miter saw.
7.) Table saw.
8.) Adhesive (Urethane is preferred)
9.) Pry-bar
10.) Rubber Mallet. This tool may or may not be necessary, this will depend on how well the product goes together. A rubber mallet may damage the finish; so be careful when using one.
11.) Floor leveling compound or floor patch.
12.) Wood chisel.
13.) Chalk line
14.) Tape measure.
15.) Blue tape (orange core only) Once again this may or may not be necessary. Blue tape can also damage the finish. Be careful.
16.) Moisture Meter. (Used for testing concrete or wood sub-floors.) If The moisture content is high, refer to my previous article titled "Water and Wood" to resolve the issue.
17.) Brown craft paper. (Used for covering the new flooring)

Having the proper tools is essential to achieving a quality installation.

Installing the hardwood is much easier when you have the proper tools. The first step to installing the wood floor is to remove any unwanted contaminates that may be on the floor. After that, check the sub-floor for any imperfections. Once that is done, you may begin leveling the sub-floor. The floor must be level within 3/16" of an inch over 8 feet, or 1/4" over an 10 foot span. Next, take your tape measure and start marking the floor for chalk lines. Find a straight wall and measure approximately 2 1/2 feet from the wall towards the center of the room. Do this on both ends of the wall. Following this pattern, work in 2 1/2 foot sections, going across the room until the installation is complete. Install the material following the longest wall. (For instance, if you room is a 12x22 install the material along the 22 foot wall.) I recommend popping a chalk line no wider than 2 1/2 feet at a time, this will help keep you from making a mess with the adhesive. Start installing the floor by nailing off a starter board to keep you first row straight. Face the tongue of the floor towards the wall and stay off the material while working. Working on top of the floor is not recommended, it can cause the floor to shift, leaving gaps in the material. It is also recommended to clean any adhesive that gets on the floor immediately. I personally recommend using brown craft paper and cover each section as you go, this keeps people from tracking glue everywhere. By following these steps you will get a clean quality installation.
This is not a difficult process, however it can be very strenuous and time consuming.
Wishing you much success.
The Floor Man

Outlet stores

2009-03-04T19:49:00.000-08:00

Trying to find a legitimate company to buy flooring from can sometimes be very difficult. In this article I will discuss the pros and cons from purchasing at outlet stores. Outlet stores are supposedly known for having the best deal in town. What you have to realize is that, what you are about to purchase may or may not be first quality material. Another problem you may face is that, all sales are final. Many items purchased at outlet stores are not returnable. Outlet stores are also famous for purchasing odd lots of materials. Here is a scenario. You measure your home for ceramic tile and find that you need 700 square feet. You go to the local outlet store and purchase the material. As you are about to finish up the job you realize that you miss-measured and need an additional 80 square feet. You go back to the store only to realize that there is none left and you are not able to get the additional 80 square feet you need. Do not be fooled, there is a reason this stuff is so cheap. Also do not believe everything the salesperson tells you. Remember, the sales person will often say what ever it takes to make a sale. One of the biggest problems to purchasing at these places is that you have to arrange for an installer to come to your home. If you decide to purchase through a retail-flooring store this is usually done for you.

There are some benefits to purchasing a flooring outlet stores. If price is the driving force in you decision and you are not particular, purchasing at these stores can be very beneficial. Another benefit to purchasing at outlet stores is that the material is generally in stock and ready for delivery. Many of these businesses are geared towards selling the product as cash and carry. The bottom line is: Outlet stores can save you la lot of money, but in reality could cost you more.

If you are planning to purchase floor covering, be sure to check the references of the store you are planning to purchase at. It is a good idea to check with the Better Business Bureau before purchasing anything. Here is an example. Just recently in Jacksonville Florida, a company called Floor Territory went out of business. During the 2008 calendar year this company had 11 complaints with the Better Business Bureau (BBB). Over the last couple of weeks the owner of this company proceeded to take deposits from customers for flooring, only to run off with their money and file bankruptcy. Had these customers checked with the Better Business Bureau first, the outcome might have been different? The moral of the story: Be careful where you buy.

Floor of the Month March 09

2009-03-01T20:34:00.000-08:00

This month, the floor of the month award goes to Ua Floors engineered reclaimed heart pine. If you are looking to recreate the look of years past, or you are looking for something unique and different, you may want to consider purchasing this floor. If you have an old historic home, a hunting lodge or you just want to make a bold statement; this floor is a great choice. This material has been reclaimed from old textile mills across the U.S. and is over 100 years old. With this product, no two floors will be the same.

This floor is available in 4 3/4" wide and also 7 1/2"; this makes it desirable for an alternative width installation. This product is 1/2" thick, has a 3mm wear layer, and has 7-ply birch plywood backing. The product comes width a 25 year, oil modified aluminum oxide finish warranty and a lifetime structure warranty. The average lengths of this product range from 40”-56” long and have plenty of 6-7 foot boards in each box.

Thank you for taking the time to read this article. If this is not the floor for you, but you would like to see other products from this company; please visit www.uafloors.com for more information.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Solid Vs. Engineered Hardwood. Which is better?

2009-03-01T17:53:00.000-08:00

In this article I will cover the difference between engineered and solid wood flooring. I often get asked; is engineered hardwood actually real wood? The answer to that question is: Yes! There are some who think that engineered wood is inferior to its solid counterpart. Solid wood has its benefits, however it is not necessarily better than engineered. Actually, the opposite just may be true.

Engineered hardwood has a cross-plywood construction, with a solid wood veneer laminated to the top. Solid hardwood is just that, solid. Both styles range in thickness from 5/16 to 3/4 inch. Both types of floors come prefinished or unfinished and come in a variety of widths and styles.

There are several benefits to engineered hardwood. Here are just a few. Engineered hardwood is more dimensionally stable than solid wood flooring. Engineered floors can be glued down directly to concrete, floated or stapled. They can be installed above, on, or below grade. Engineered floors are less prone to cupping and usually have a lifetime structure warranty. These floors can be installed over radiant heat. Engineered hardwood can also be used to make intricate patterns, such as herringbone, Hungarian point, Dutch weave and more. The downside to engineered flooring is the process by which it is made. The adhesives used may contain formaldehyde or other toxic chemicals.

The top veneer on engineered floors can range from 0.6 millimeters to a full 1/4 inch. There are essentially four different ways to saw the veneers for flooring. The four cuts are: Rotary, Sawn face, Rift and quartered, and Quarter sawn. Sawn face and Rift and quartered material is the exact same cut as a solid hardwood. Engineered hardwood also comes unfinished, most people cannot tell the difference between engineered unfinished and a solid unfinished.

There are actually not as many benefits to solid wood when compared to engineered. Installing solid hardwood flooring helps to create a structurally sound floor and helps with acoustics within the home. Solid wood has a surface layer of 1/4 inch that can be refinished several times. Manufacturing solid hardwood is cleaner process than that of engineered.

The disadvantages of solid wood are as follows. Solid wood is very susceptible to moisture. Cupping and crowning problems are common. These floors are not as stable, however some species are inherently more stable than others. It is common to have cracks and end gaps in the flooring due to seasonal changes. Solid wood flooring cannot be installed over radiant heat. Extreme low humidity or dryness will cause the wood to split and separate. Solid wood floors are more difficult to install and should not be glued to concrete slabs. There is an exception to this rule. Shorts (planks that are typically 15 inches or less) can be glued to concrete slabs.

No matter which type of hardwood floor you decide to choose, you will still get the benefit of added value to your home and the warmth and feel it creates. Take the time to learn about the different products in the market, this way you don't get stuck with a disposable floor.

Thanks,
The Floor Man

Going Green

2009-02-24T19:31:00.001-08:00

The state of the flooring industry is quickly changing due to environmental concerns. Many manufacturing and construction companies are starting to use "green" products to help clean up the environment. Agencies Such as the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) and the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) have developed certification programs to ensure "green" building practices. In 1998 the USGBC developed the LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) points system. This point system allows builders and construction companies to obtain tax credits and grants for their projects by accumulating points when using "green" products The LEED certification has four different levels. These four are: Certified, silver, platinum, and gold. In order to obtain a LEED certification for building projects, certain requirements must be met. To learn more about the requirements needed to become LEED certified, please visit this website: www.usgbc.org/LEED. The Forest Stewardship Council is an agency that establishes principles and criteria that covers environmental, economic and social concerns. THE FSC is the leading agency that determines who is environmentally responsible. The main purpose of the council is to manage the world’s forests to ensure they are sustainable. More information on FSC certification can be found here: http://www.fscus.org/.

In the flooring industry there are several "green" products to choose from. The main products are: Bamboo, Cork, Linoleum, Hardwood, Carpet and even Tile. Many of these products are made from recycled materials and are easily replenished. If you are interested in buying a "green" product, take the time to learn about the procedures, which makes them environmentally friendly.

Cork Flooring is a renewable resource that is made from the bark of the cork tree. Cork cannot be harvested until the tree has grown for 25 years. Every nine years or more, the bark can be stripped from the tree and processed into flooring. Water based finishes are used making it completely "green". The tree is never destroyed in the process, which eliminates any environmental impact. Cork trees are grown and harvested mainly in Portugal and Western Europe.

Bamboo is grown and harvested in as little as 3 years; it is renewed rapidly and regenerates without having to be replanted. Very minimal pesticides or fertilizers are needed in order to grow bamboo. If you are considering bamboo as a flooring option, please read my article titled "Beware of Bamboo".

Linoleum floors are made from all natural materials such as; linseed oil, wood flour and cork dust. Linoleum is allergen free and does not contain any toxic chemicals. Linoleum also meets all low VOC (volatile organic compound) requirements. Linoleum is a great product and is very durable.

Wood flooring is another great choice when it comes to choosing a "green" product. Woof floors are natural, renewable and recyclable. More manufacturers are becoming FSC certified and are using toxin free chemicals in the production process.

Carpeting such as PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) polyester and wool are considered "green". Polyester carpet is made from recycled plastic and wool is made from natural materials and is biodegradable.

Purchasing "green" flooring materials can have many benefits; here are just a few.
(1.) These types of floors are made from recycled materials and reduce dependency on oil.
(2.) They are safe for your family.
(3.) They are not thrown into landfills and can be recycled.
(4.) They help keep the environment clean.
There are other benefits to buying green but I feel these are the most important.
I hope this helps.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Hardwood vs. Laminate. Which is better?

2009-02-22T20:27:00.000-08:00

In this article I will discuss the pros and cons of both laminate and hardwood flooring. By the end of this post you should be able to decide what will best fit your needs.

First I will cover hardwood flooring.
Pros:
(1.) Hardwood flooring can be refinished
(2.) Hardwood flooring ads real value to your home. Adds approximately 15% of value to your home.
(3.) Hardwood flooring is ecologically friendly. Many manufacturers must abide by strict guidelines when harvesting lumber. More trees are being replanted more than ever before.
(4.) Hardwood flooring is easy to maintain. Suppliers such as Bona-Kemi have made cleaners that will not damage the floor.
(5.) Hardwood is timeless and never goes out of style. Wood floors can truly last a lifetime.
(6.) Hardwood is hypo allergenic. Dust mites, mold, mildew and animal dander cannot grow and hide in hardwood.
(7.) Hardwood is affordable. While the cost of raw materials to make nylon carpet is going up; hardwood pricing is going down.
(8.) Hardwood will help sell a home faster. The perception of value that comes with hardwood, goes along way with most new home buyers.
Cons:
(1.) Hardwood floors are susceptible to denting.
(2.) Hardwood floors will scratch, Buying the right type of hardwood is key here.
(3.) Hardwood can get very expensive. You get what you pay for, so shop carefully.
(4.) Hardwood can be adversely affected by moisture. Moisture can ruin a floor.
(5.) Hardwood is not suitable for families with big dogs and children in most cases.
There are some wood floors that can handle traffic more effectively. Know the hardwood and its limitations.
(6.) Hardwood Floors will have to be refinished. This is also a pro.
(7.) Hardwood flooring can be difficult to install correctly. Hire a reputable contractor.

Laminate floors
Pros:
(1.) Laminate flooring is easy to install. Laminate is a great product for do it yourself projects. These floors can also be installed very quickly
(2.) Laminate is very scratch and dent resistant. You pretty much have to take a hammer to dent the stuff.
(3.) Laminate is inexpensive. Laminate floors are very reasonably priced. Some as little as .99 cents per square foot.
(4.) Laminate is also hypo allergenic. Once again, no dust mites or mildew.
(5.) Laminate comes in a variety of styles. You can now purchase hand scraped and distressed laminate.
(6.) Laminate floors are environmentally friendly. Recycled materials are used in the manufacturing process, this keeps waste out of the landfills.
(7.) Laminate floors are easy to maintain. Once again Bona_Kemi rules in the maintenance category

Cons:
(1.) Laminate will not add much value to your home. This is an inexpensive floor and in not considered permanent.
(2.) Laminate is adversely affected by moisture. Floods and topical moisture can be very costly.
(3.) Laminate floors sound hollow when you walk on them. Even the best underlayment will not make them silent.
(4.) Laminate floors cannot be refinished and will scratch. Nothing is scratch proof.
(5.) Laminate is prone to chipping. Direct pressure laminates can have serious micro-chipping issues. Learn the difference between direct and high pressure.
(6.) laminate floors can be hard to repair. Quality contractors are worth the money.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions at all please dont hesitate to ask.
Sincerely,
The Floor Man

The Lacey Act

2009-02-19T18:57:00.000-08:00

In the early 1900's the Lacey act was enacted to prevent the illegal transportation, exportation, importation and sale of any wildlife into, or out of this country. In the summer of 2008 there was an amendment made to this act. The act now covers certain types of plants and plant products, as well as illegally harvested lumber that are made into wood flooring. Those who are found taking part in these illegal acts are subject to a 500,000 penalty and up to 5 years in prison. In order for wood flooring suppliers to bring in exotic hardwoods into our country, they must abide by the regulations and have all materials declared to be free from illegal harvesting practices.

Approximately 18% of all exotic hardwood floors brought into this country have been illegally harvested and milled overseas. Suppliers who have been practicing good stewardship have been hurt by this 18%. It costs a lot of money to have products declared Eco-friendly. Those suppliers that are not abiding by the Lacey act, will either have to conform to these new rules or go out of business. Suppliers cannot compete and stay in business when they are not playing on a level playing field.

Now I know why exotic floors have become so inexpensive over the past couple of years. The Lacey Act is going to change all that. For those of us on the supply side who have legal products, this amendment could not have come fast enough. I expect over the next few months there will be a considerable amount of dumping of these products. Look for prices to remain low in the short run; in the long run however this industry will be dramatically different, because of this new amendment to the Lacey act.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Retail vs. Internet shopping

2009-02-17T20:47:00.000-08:00

If you are shopping for new flooring, I suggest you buy from your local retailer. In this article I am going to give you a few good reasons why you should not buy flooring online. If you do choose to buy your flooring off the internet, make sure to do your homework.

The first problem you will come across when purchasing flooring online, is the availability of samples. Most internet floor stores will only send you a small sample piece of the material, which is not truly representing the product. In other words, what you see is not always what you get. The material once shipped, may or may not be first quality. You should also be aware of the fact, that many manufacturers will not warranty products that are purchased over the internet. If you do have a problem with the floor, good luck getting someone to come at look at it. Another issue one must deal with is shipping. Most times the truck driver that delivers the material will unload the flooring at the end of the driveway and leave you to move it into the house. Many internet flooring stores will not accept returns for any reason. Basically, if you decide you do not like the floor, you will not be able to return it. If you do purchase flooring online use your credit card. This way if you need to dispute the charges you can. If you do buy online, you are going to have to find your own flooring installer. Unless you know a qualified flooring mechanic, this is flirting with disaster and not recommended.

Here are a couple of reasons why you should buy from your local flooring retailer. Number one, a lot of money and times is spent on displays and advertising. Internet flooring stores have not invested much time, or money into promoting the product. There is also a large expense in having a retail location. These retail stores were built for you the consumer to shop at. I do not think it is right for a customer to use the retailer for their knowledge and their samples, only to buy online. It takes a real sales person to sell a product at a decent profit. Anyone can take orders for pennies over cost. Retailers are in the business to make money and to provide superior service, which is another thing that internet stores lack. Also; warranty issues, complaints, credit issues, and installation problems are much easier to handle at the local level.

As the market contracts even further in the next few months, more and more flooring retailers are going to go out of business. Help support them and take advantage of the service they provide. If you don't, they may not be there in the future for you to depend on. In some cases you may be able to buy the material cheaper online, but it could cost you more in the long run. Buyer beware
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Installing new carpet

2009-02-12T20:24:00.000-08:00

There are a few things you should know before you have new carpet installed in your home. In this article I will discuss the process of installing new carpet, as well as consumer and installer expectations. If you follow these guidelines, you will find that the end result will be a positive experience.

First lets talk about the flooring contractors expectations. Before the flooring contractor comes into your home to install new carpet, there are some things that need to be done first. Number one; all knick knacks and breakables must be moved by the consumer. The installer is there to install carpet, not to move expensive collectibles. Number two; Computers and electronics should be unplugged and disconnected. Some flooring contractors will refuse to move or disconnect these items, others will be more accommodating. It is preferable to have the home owner move these items. If this is not possible, a family friend or neighbor will most likely be able to help. These are two large liabilities that the contractor should not be liable for. The next item on the list is furniture. Furniture can be handled by the consumer or the flooring contractor. If you choose to have the flooring contractor move your furniture, be prepared to pay an extra 1.50-2.00 per square yard for this service. Pictures that are in main hallways and other high traffic areas should be removed and put away before installation. This will eliminate the possibility of damaging a priceless work of art. In the closet, low hanging clothes such as dresses and long pants should be removed and taken out of the way. Any shoes or boxes on the closet floor should be moved as well. Taking these steps will make the installer very happy. Remember, a happy installer is a good installer. On the other hand, an unhappy installer can be very difficult to work with.

Once the breakables, furniture, and electronics are moved, the installer can begin the process of installing new carpet. The carpet and pad will need to be ripped up and new tack strip may need to be put down. The floors will need sweeping and the old materials will need to be disposed of. This is almost always done by the contractor and is part of the job. There should be no extra charge for this service. If you choose to rip out the carpet, do not expect to take money off the labor bill. Once all the old materials are removed, the contractor can begin installing the new padding. After the padding is installed, the carpet is cut up and put into its prospective rooms. Then carpet should be seamed together with a "hot" melt seaming tape and stretched with a power stretcher, not with a knee kicker.

Consumers should expect to have carpet that is free from wrinkles, manufacturing defects, seams that are well made (but not invisible) and realistic expectations, as to how the carpet will perform over time. When you decide to have new carpet installed in your home, make sure the contractor is using a power stretcher. If the installer claims he does not need power stretcher, find another contractor. This is very important. If you have any other questions about carpet installations or what to expect, leave me a comment and I will be sure to respond.
Regards,
The Floor Man

Product warranties

2009-02-09T18:28:00.000-08:00

If you are considering purchasing new flooring, take the time to learn as much as you can about the products, but don't get caught up in the warranties. If you are buying a particular product because of its warranty, you are buying for the wrong reason. In this article I will attempt to explain the types of warranties and what they do and do not cover. The three types of flooring warranties I am going to cover are: Laminate, hardwood, and carpet. There are also warranties for manufacturing defects, most of which cover a one year period and will not be covered in this article. These warranties are the least important, primarily because defects are found at the time of installation.

First lets cover hardwood flooring. Hardwood flooring typically has two types of warranties. the first is a finish warranty. The finish warranty means that the finish will not wear through to the wear layer from normal use, for X amount of years. A finish warranty does not cover scratching, or gloss reduction in the finish due to high traffic or sunlight. Most finish warranties cover a 10, 15, or 25 year period. Occasionally, you will find some products that have a 40 or 50 year finish warranty. The only real difference between these warranties, is the amount of finished applied to the floor itself. In some instances, there may be no difference in the amount of finish applied at all. A 15 year product may have the same amount of finish, that a 25 year product has. If there is a difference, it is probably so minute that it would not be worth paying for. There are two main things that drive up the price of hardwood flooring. The first thing that drives the price up, is the type of hardwood. The harder the wood, the more expensive it will be. The size of the wear layer is the second thing that drives the price up. The thicker the top wear layer on an engineered product, the more expensive it will be. Availability, width of product and length structure play an important role too, but not as much as the type of wood and the size of the wear layer. Basically, if you are buying a product with a thick wear layer, and is a hard exotic specie, there will be a good warranty attached to it. The other warranty associated with hardwood is the structural warranty. Most engineered products have a lifetime structure warranty. This warranty guarantees that the wood will not buckle, cup, warp, or De-laminate for the life of the product. There are no structural warranties associated with solid hardwood flooring. There are many exclusions in warranties for hardwood, so take the time to read them, however do not base your purchase decision solely on them.

Carpet warranties can be be difficult to understand, so try not to focus on them too much. Most carpets have a 10 year, 10 percent fiber warranty. This means that the carpet will not lose 10% of its surface pile fiber, for a period of ten years. Even under the most strenuous circumstances this will never happen. Another warranty you will see on carpet, is the stain resistance warranty. This does not mean the carpet will not stain, it only means it will be easier to clean when it is new. All carpet will stain, however some types are more stain resistant than others. Polyester is more stain resistant than nylon, but tends to wear out faster. When looking for carpet ignore the warranties for the most part. Instead focus on threads per square inch, density, the twist of the yarn and the type of fiber. All of these things put together, make for a quality carpet. You can read my post on types of carpet, for further information.

Warranties for laminate floors usually only cover premature wear, fading and staining. Scratches and water damage are not covered under warranty. If you are in the market for a quality laminate, take the time to learn about the difference between high and direct pressure.
Visit http://www.wilsonartflooring.com/advantage.asp to learn about the differences. The three best laminates on the market are: Wilsonart, Alloc original and Pergo select.

Take the time to learn about the products you intend to buy and the warranties will speak for themselves. Unfortunately warranties are sometimes put on products, just so you will buy them. The best way to learn about the warranty of a product is to read its exclusions. I hope this helps.
Sincerely,
The Floor Man

Financing floors

2009-02-07T17:05:00.000-08:00

If you are considering financing your new floor, I suggest you read this article. There are many companies out there today who offer long term financing. Companies Like Wells Fargo, GE Consumer credit, Citi Financial and more. All of these companies charge the retailer a percentage for offering you special financing. I'm sure you have seen offers that range from 90 days to over two years. There is no charge from the credit companies for offering 90 days sames as cash. There is a slight charge for offering six months, but it is not enough to worry about. The retailer will most likely absorb the cost of these two terms, however they will not absorb the cost of long term financing. The finance company will allow you to make payments over the terms, or you may choose no payments and elect to pay the entire balance at the end of the financing period. Waiting till the end to pay is to risky. I suggest that you go with the monthly payment option.

The problem with financing a floor, is that the interest rate the finance companies are charging the retailer could be tacked onto your bill with out you knowing about it. It is hardly interest free and will most likely cost you much more than you should be paying. You can expect pay an additional 10 percent or more, if you choose long term financing (usually more than one year). The next problem I see with financing a floor more than 90 days or six months is that your floor could show significant wear in a very short period of time. For instance, carpet will mat, crush and stain in a relatively short period of time. Do not under any circumstances finance a polyester carpet for more than a year. Polyester carpet does not hold up very well and will not perform long term. In essence your carpet could be worn out before your even finished paying for it.

If you choose to finance your floor, I would suggest asking the retailer what the interest/discount rate the consumer credit company is charging them for being able to offer you long term financing. I would ask for two quotes, one with financing and one without. The retailer may or may not choose to give you this information. If possible, consider paying cash for your new floor. If you do choose to finance the floor just make sure your floor will last longer than the financing.
12-24 months same as cash financing sounds good, but in reality it can cost you thousands more. Also, if you do decide to finance your purchase and don't pay of the entire amount within the specified time period, you may be charged in upwards of 23 percent on the original loan. So before you finance your new floor take some time and think about your options. You may find paying cash is the best way to go.
I hope this article was helpful and I hope you are able to save money because of it.
Sincerely,
The Floor Man

Floor maintenance

2009-02-05T21:57:00.000-08:00

No matter what kind of flooring you have in your home, it is important to know how to properly maintain them. In this article I will attempt to explain the various types of floors and how to care for them. For simplicity sake, I will cover the maintenance of hardwood, laminate, tile, natural stone and carpet. There are many different types of flooring to maintain, however these are the most popular.

Laminate floors are gaining popularity, because they are easy to maintain, very durable and are cost effective. To take care of laminate properly you first need to vacuum the floor regularly and clean the floor with a laminate floor cleaner. Gently spray the floor cleaner over the floor, in a four by four foot section. Next, take a swiffer mop and remove the cleaner. If there is any gum or other contaminates on the floor remove them first before cleaning. Laminate floor cleaner is widely available through your local flooring retailer. I suggest using the cleaner that is recommended by the manufacturer of the floor. Do not ever attempt to wet mop any laminate floor. Doing so will most likely ruin your floor. This is the only maintenance the laminate will require.

Tile and natural stone is a little more difficult to maintain because of their porous nature. Once tile or stone has been installed in your home, it is highly recommended to use a penetrating water based sealer, to protect from staining. Use pH neutral cleaners such as Bona Kemi's stone, tile and laminate floor cleaner. Do not attempt to use any type of acidic cleaners as the will eat away at the grout and the natural stone. The method for cleaning tile or natural stone is the same as cleaning a laminate floor. If you have spills clean them up immediately. Do not wipe the floor with a rag, it will smear the fluid and possibly spread the stain, instead blot up all spills with a paper towel. If you have polished marble do not attempt to wet mop the floor. Wet mopping over a long period of time will cause mineral buildup, which dulls the surface. Occasionally natural stone will require some resurfacing, due to wear and tear. This is done using diamond plates and aggressive compounds and should be done by a professional. If you are considering purchasing natural stone for your home and do not like the word maintenance, you might consider ceramic or porcelain tile. Ceramic tile and porcelain require less maintenance and are also less expensive to buy.

Hardwood flooring is relatively low maintenance. It is however recommended to use walk off mats at both the front and back doors, to avoid scratching the urethane finish. First vacuum the floor to remove any dirt before cleaning. Next spay the floor with a hardwood floor cleaner over a four by four foot section and remove the cleaner with a swiffer. Over time, scratches in you hardwood floor will begin to appear. In order to remove the scratches the floor must be screened and re-coated or sanded and refinished by a professional. Do not attempt to use any oil soaps or waxes to clean your floor. This will contaminate your floor making it almost impossible to refinish. Also, do not use orange glow as it will often times leave a cloudy haze. Use only a recommended cleaner by the hardwood manufacturer such as Bona Kemi's hardwood floor cleaner. This cleaner can be purchased as a kit from a local flooring store. Do not ever attempt to wet mop any hardwood floor. Doing so will only damage the floor which will then most likely need to be replaced. Hardwood floors can be very expensive, so make sure you are using the appropriate cleaner for your floor.

If you have carpet in your home, it is recommended by the manufacturer to vacuum, two to three times a week. Vacuuming regularly will increase the life of the carpet and will extend your investment. Each time you vacuum, you are bringing the fibers in the carpet back to life, which also extends the life of the carpet. Before entering your home take off all shoes and leave the dirt outside. Dirt will eat away at the fibers of the carpet and can ruin the floor. Annual cleaning should be done by steam cleaning the carpet which should be done by a professional. Do not steam clean your carpet more than twice a year. Over-cleaning will destroy the carpet by causing the latex backing to separate from the fibers. If you have small spots that need to be cleaned try resolve. This product works fairly well on most dirt and food stains. Do not attempt to use resolve on grease stains, as it will seal the grease into the carpet.

As with all cleaners make sure they are put away in a safe place. Knowing how to properly maintain your floor will save you money and help extend the life it. If you keep a maintenance schedule, you will get your money's worth out of your floor. Poor maintenance will destroy floors and can cost a lot to repair. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, leave a comment
Thanks,
the Floor Man

Floor preparation

2009-02-05T19:42:00.000-08:00

Before floors are installed in your home floor preparation must be done. Floor prep consists of many different things. In this article I will attempt to explain the different methods that are used to prepare your floor for new floor covering. First off let me begin by giving you a definition of floor prep. Floor prep is the process by which the sub-floor is cleaned, leveled, scraped, grinded, patched or sanded. Prep work must be done so it is within the specifications for the floor.

Each type of floor covering will require that a certain amount of preparatory work be done prior to installation. Let me give you a few examples. Carpet generally requires the least amount of prep work. Scraping to remove old padding and adhesive is required, as well as sweeping or vacuuming of the sub-floor. When installing glue down carpet, patch work may be required. Most of the time flooring installers will not charge for this extra work.

Vinyl or linoleum almost always requires floor prep. The slab for vinyl is prepared by skim coating the sub-floor to fill any voids it may have. If the sub-floor is not prepared properly, undulations in the floor and contaminates will shine or ”bleed" through into the flooring. It is very important that the floor is flat and clean prior to installation. Vinyl is relatively thin and will show everything.

Ceramic tile or natural stone work needs a certain amount of prep work as well. Sub-floor imperfections can be overcome creating a mud bed to set the materials in. Mud beds are created by using tar paper and wire mesh. The tar paper helps to eliminate movement and the mesh provides a superior bond for the setting materials, making the tile less likely to crack. They are formed and poured to be made level. A mud bed is the best way to set tile or natural stone. Larger tile requires a much flatter surface which makes mud beds or "mortar sets" ideal for this application. If you choose to set tile directly to the concrete cracks must be filled and all contaminates must be removed. It is also recommended that an anti-fracture membrane be used to prevent the tile from cracking due to movement in the floor. Mud sets are the best way to prep a floor for tile; however it is the most expensive form of floor prep.

Hardwood flooring is often prepared with a self leveler or a type of floor patch. Leveler is used when you have a rolling slab with numerous valleys. To prepare the floor for self leveler, the floor must be free of contaminates and rolled with a primer. The primer is usually rolled on the slab with a paint roller with a long extension handle. The primer allows the leveler to create a bond to the sub-floor. Floor patch is used primarily when there is little prep work needed. If preparatory work is not done first, you will most likely have hollow spots in your floor. For hardwood flooring the slab must be level within 3/16" over an 8 foot span or 1/4" over 10 foot. Floor prep can vary in pricing and be very expensive. If the prep work is not done properly the floor won't perform at its optimum level.

Before any work is done in your home, be sure the appropriate measures are taken and that the floors are prepared properly. The last thing you want is to have to replace a brand new floor.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Beware of Bamboo

2009-02-04T21:12:00.000-08:00

Bamboo flooring has been a "hot" product in the market for the last couple of years and is quickly becoming the favorite choice by those inspired by the green movement. There is some concern however that deforestation is happening across China so that bamboo can be planted and harvested, because it grows quickly and is such a valuable economic resource. There is also a concern about the adhesives used to glue the products together. Many toxins are released in the atmosphere during the manufacturing process, which cause environmental concerns. I believe the exact opposite of green is deforestation and the release of chemicals into the atmosphere. So before you decide to purchase bamboo you might consider reading this post in its entirety. If you do decide to purchase bamboo flooring you have many options.

In this article I'm only going to focus on 3 different products and the problems you may incur with them. The products I'm going to talk about are natural, carbonized, or stranded. Natural bamboo is a yellowish to light blond color which is made in the vertical or horizontal pattern. Carbonized bamboo goes through a steaming process and is more brown in color which is also available for purchase in the vertical or horizontal pattern. The bamboo is cut through the center of the stalks, flattened out and pressed to achieve the horizontal look. Vertical bamboo is sliced, the pieces are stood up on its ends and glued together giving it more of a straight grained appearance. Stranded bamboo is made from the bamboo fibers that are fused together with little environmental impact and can be purchased in many colors.These three types of bamboo are considered solid in the industry.

The main problem associated with bamboo is that it is very prone to denting and scratches. Therefore not suitable with pets young children and high amounts of traffic. Another problem you will come across with bamboo is cupping. Cupping is a problem that appears as a rippling effect across your floor and is caused by moisture. Bamboo by nature is very susceptible to moisture. The slightest hint of moisture will cup the floor. The only real way to solve this problem is to use some sort of moisture vapor protection. Products like Bostik's MVP or Mapei's WFM will help protect the floor from having this problem, but can be quite expensive especially if the job you are doing is a large one. Engineered bamboo flooring is far more stable and less likely to have cupping issues, however the is an environmental footprint because of the formaldehyde and other toxins released during manufacturing.

If you decide to purchase bamboo I recommend buying the stranded version. It leaves virtually no environmental footprint and is a lot harder than traditional bamboo. It is however still susceptible to cupping. After all, bamboo is just a grass. We all know what grass does when watered. So be extremely careful because one little mistake can cost you lots of money.
Thanks,
The Floor Man

Floor of the month

2009-02-03T19:08:00.000-08:00

This February, the floor of the month award goes to DuChateau's hand-scraped white oak. This time inspiring floor takes us back to centuries ago. The warm look and feel of this floor will fit almost any decor and will be certain to create a design statement. DuChateau has been made by exceptional craftsman who know how to recreate the style from years past.

This product is designed in Holland from European white oak, which is impregnated with all natural products such as, sunflower oil, linseed oil, thistle oil, and hard waxes such as carnauba and paraffin. The oils and waxes in this product allow the floor to breathe, brings out it's natural color and requires very little maintenance. If you have a project that requires an awe inspiring floor try this one. This floor is sure to perform well in both residential and commercial applications and can be tailor fitted to one's own taste.

Du Chateau is stocked in the United States in both Georgia and California for Quick delivery. Custom floors come directly from Holland and typically require a 10 week lead time. If you would like more information about this product, or if you would like to see other products made by this company visit www.duchateaufloors.com for more info.

Take some time to look around and check back often. I'll have more new and exciting things to share with you. Leave a comment if you wish, I'll be sure to reply. Thanks for taking the time to visit my page.
Sincerely,
The Floor Man

Labor Warranties

2009-02-01T21:57:00.001-08:00

Have you ever had some type of floor covering installed in your home, only to have to pay a contractor to come back to repair your floor after a year? Whether it be a hollow spot in your wood floor, a wrinkle in your carpet, or a loose tile, warranty work can be costly. Well it shouldn't be. It is common practice in this industry for contractors to give the consumer a one year labor warranty, on all floor covering materials after installation. All too often installers in this industry like to shirk their responsibility and charge the customer for mistakes that were made during the original installation. If more consumers knew a little bit about business law, they would find that there are statutes that protects them from these deceptive practices.

In Florida there is a statute called the statute of repose. This statute was enacted to protect consumers from designers and contractors who make improvements to real property. Many states in the union have adopted similar laws, so make sure you review your state laws in case you come across this problem. Here is a brief definition as to what this statute means. Whether it is carpet or any other type of floor covering it is understood that it will have an expected useful life. For instance, if your new carpet has a 10 year 10% fiber warranty, then it is expected that the carpet should last approximately 10 years.

Let me give you an example of how this works: A carpet installer comes into your home and installs your 65 ounce carpet and decides to use nothing more than a knee kicker to put it in, instead of a power stretcher, which is what should have been used. A year passes by and your carpet starts to wrinkle, causing the backing to delaminate and the loss of fiber content in your floor. you try to contact the installer but are not able to get in contact with him. you decide to call the flooring retailer for help and are told there is a minimum charge to fix this problem, possibly more. What the retailer and the contractor do not realize, is that statute I just spoke about can hold them liable for up to 10 years after the installation, in most states. Another example is when a contractor installs ceramic tile in your home and the grout begins to crack and the tiles break, due to a poor bond to the sub-floor. This is normally caused from setting the tile into mortar that is too dry. Most mortars for ceramic tile have a 10 year warranty, so it is expected that the tile should stay bonded to the sub-floor for that period of time.

There are a few ways to avoid these situations, but I will only name a few. First off, check references on your local retailer and the installer they plan on using. Next, get as much information as you possibly can about proper installation methods for your particular floor covering and make sure the contractor has the appropriate license and insurance to work in your home. You may even consider doing a background check.

If you follow these few guidelines you are less likely to have these problems. If you do have a situation where the contractor refuses to fix something that wasn't done right in the first place and tries to charge you for it, don't let him. Tell him you know the law, because most likely he doesn't and he may just decide to fix the problem without trying to wrongfully charge you. Don't be deceived by their one year warranties, because in reality it is more than that.
Thanks
The Floor Man

Water and Wood

2009-01-31T12:13:00.000-08:00

Before you install hardwood flooring in your home, check for moisture. Always check your sub-floor, to make sure the conditions are right before installation. A High moisture content in you sub-floor can create problems. These problems range from cupping issues in solid hardwood, to finish blistering of engineered floors. These problems are explained in more detail further in the post.

A moisture meter is the most common tool used for moisture testing. When testing concrete slabs; test several areas to make sure the job-site is within tolerance. If you find a high reading in one area, but not another you need to investigate further. Moisture testing is almost always done by the flooring contractor, so make sure he is checking the job-site properly. Grading issues, plumbing leaks and insufficient insulation are other issues that may need to be addressed. Moisture problems can damage floors and cost you thousands of dollars, so make sure all appropriate measures are taken. If your flooring contractor finds that the moisture reading in your concrete is high, do not let him install the floor. Ask him to document those readings and to offer you solutions.

One way to solve a high moisture problem is to use Bostik's MVP (moisture vapor protection). This product is a trowelable urethane that blocks, or inhibits moisture from coming up into your floor. A urethane adhesive is not a sufficient moisture barrier. It will however provide a better bond to the substrate, than an acrylic or water-based adhesive. Another alternative to using MVP, (which is expensive) is to float your hardwood floor. The floating method is not adhered to the sub-floor and is floated over an underlayment and moisture barrier, such as visqueen.

If you have a plywood sub-floor, then make sure there is a vapor barrier underneath the house. If there is no vapor barrier under the house, mold will start to grow and cause many problems within your home. When testing for moisture for solid hardwoods, make sure the floor is checked for moisture as well as the sub-floor. If the wood is not acclimated properly you will have cupping issues. Proper acclimation is more than just storing wood flooring in your home for a couple of days. It is properly acclimated when the moisture content of the wood is within the allowable difference of the moisture content in the sub-floor, according to the NWFA (National Wood Flooring Association) guidelines.

Cupping appears as a ripple effect across the floor. The only way to fix cupping issues is to eliminate the moisture problem and sand and refinish the floor. In some cases the entire floor may need to be replaced. Cupping can reside on its own once the moisture problems have been fixed, however there is no guarantee. Relative humidity can play an important role in the performance of your new floor. The humidity should remain between 35-55 percent. High humidity can cause cupping issues, end gapping and allow mold to grow. Low humidity can cause the floor to shrink, the finish to crack, or the floor to delaminate. Delaminating is when the top veneer of the wood releases from its plywood backing. I hope I have helped you recognize the potential problems with moisture. Hopefully this information will keep you from having any problems in the future.
Thanks
The Floor Man

Types of Tile

2009-01-07T17:28:00.000-08:00

If you are tired of replacing carpet, try replacing it with tile. Tile is a very functional type of floor covering that can be used in many different applications. Before you make your tile selection you need to consider a few things. The size and type of tile are the two main things to consider.

The types of tile to choose from are: porcelain, ceramic, travertine, marble and natural stone. Most tile is made from fired ceramics, porcelain (usually either glazed or through body). Travertine and marble are natural stone. Ceramic tile is going to be the most affordable option and can be purchased in a variety of sizes and patterns. Ceramic usually has a red body (which means the back of the tile is red) or a white body, this generally depends upon where the material was made. Most people tend to buy a white bodied tile because of chipping. When a red bodied tile is chipped, it is more noticeable than a white bodied version.

Ceramic is rated by the PEI scale (porcelain enamel institute) the tile is rated 1-5. Tiles rated 1-2 are generally made for walls and showers, or tub surrounds, Tiles that are rated 3-5 are used as flooring. The higher the rating of the tile, the more durable the tile will be. Glazed porcelain tile is made of porcelain clays that are more impervious fine grained and have a lower water absorption rate, which makes them frost proof. Glazed porcelain tiles are excellent for residential use and light commercial traffic. Through body porcelain tile are suitable for industrial use, heavy commercial traffic and all residential applications. Through body tile are virtually impervious to wear.

Travertine is a natural stone made up of carbonate minerals and comes from Turkey, Greece, and Italy mainly. This product can be purchased either filled or unfilled, which means open holes or filled ones. Travertine is a nice option for floor covering, but requires more maintenance (due to its porous nature) than ceramic or porcelain. Travertine is a natural stone that is white in color, but can be brown to yellow because of impurities. Marble is another natural stone that is high in calcium carbonates, which ranges in color from region to region. Marble is a very popular type of flooring, but like travertine requires more maintenance. Both marble and travertine and more likely to crack and break, than porcelain. I hope I have helped you to understand the differences between the various tiles available. If you have any questions please leave a comment and I will get back to you shortly.
Thanks
The Floor Man

Types of Carpet

2009-01-02T18:02:00.000-08:00

If you are considering purchasing new carpet, there are many different types to choose from. There are some things you should consider before purchasing carpet. In this article I will try to explain the different styles of carpet and the fibers by which they are made.

Let me begin by going over the fiber type from which carpet is made. Carpet is made from nylon, olefin (polypropylene) and polyester (essentially the same as olefin) and wool. As far as durability goes, wool is the most durable fiber; nylon would come next with polyester and olefin being the least durable of the fibers. As you can well imagine, the more durable the carpet, the more expensive it will be.

If you want to get your money out of your carpet I recommend buying the best padding. A denser pad will extend the life of your carpet. A dense pad acts like a shock absorber to your carpet fibers. There are also many different types of padding as well. The three main types of carpet padding are re-bond, rubber, (waffle padding) and prime urethane. I recommend using an 8lb re-bond pad. If you are looking to buy carpet for you home, then you have essentially 4-5 styles to choose from.

The four main types of residential carpets: plush pile (cut), frieze, berber (loop), and cable yarn. There is also a cut and loop pile. If it is commercial carpet you are looking for then your choices are going to be either loop or plush pile. A frieze carpet is shag like carpet with tightly twisted yarn, made in either polyester or nylon. The tighter the twist in the fiber and the more threads per square per square inch, the more durable the carpet will be.

The big difference between polyester and nylon is the wear factor. Once again nylon is more durable; however there is a trade off. Polyester tends to be more stain resistance. Plush pile carpet either comes in trackless (tracks less) or Saxony (which has the velvet look and feel) it also shows vacuum cleaner marks. Berber carpets are primarily made from olefin, although some Berbers do have a nylon and olefin blend. Berber carpets can be purchased with a pattern or without one. The number one rule of thumb for Berber carpet is: the bigger the loop, the quicker it will wear out. A cable yarn carpet is essentially the same as a frieze, except that it is a thicker gauge yarn. A cut and loop is both a cut and loop pile carpet. This particular type of carpet is usually made into patterned carpet.

Wool carpet is made mostly in the berber form. Karastan is the most popular brand of wool carpet and one of the most expensive. Another thing to consider is whether the carpet is a continuous filament fiber or a staple yarn (They like to call it spun yarn because it sounds better) A continuous filament fiber will not shed (that is creating fuzz balls) a staple yarn will. One easy way to tell if the carpet is a staple yarn, is to pet the carpet to see if it creates a fuzz ball. I hope I have given you enough information now, in order for you to make a well informed decision.
Thanks
The Floor Man

Types of hardwood Flooring

2009-01-02T17:17:00.000-08:00

If you are interested in purchasing hardwood flooring there are many things to consider. What species of hardwood to buy, engineered vs solid, exotic or domestic and many others. For the purpose of this article I am going to talk about types of hardwood.

There are three main types of hardwood flooring. All of which have different applications. There is engineered, floating and solid nail down. Engineered floors are typically glued down to a concrete slab or stapled to a plywood sub-floor. Engineered floors are made of a cross ply construction (made like plywood) with a wood veneer laminated to the top (these floors also come unfinished). Most engineered floors can also be floated. Typically the thicker the top veneer, the more expensive the product will be.

Floating floors are installed over an under-layment or a pad. This type of flooring is not adhered to the sub-floor at all. It basically floats over the sub-floor. Both engineered and floating hardwoods can be installed above grade, on grade and below grade (basements). Floating floors also eliminate the need for costly adhesive. Floating floors provide for a quicker and cleaner installation, making it easier for consumers who want to do the work themselves. Most installers will charge less to float a floor, than a glue down installation.

Solid hardwood flooring is used strictly for nail down application to a plywood sub-floor. Nail down floors comes both prefinished or unfinished. If you are thinking about using an unfinished product for a site finished floor, you may want to consider an unfinished engineered product. Especially if you have a concrete slab. Using this type of product will save you the cost of buying 3/4" plywood and the cost of the labor to put it down. Which ever type of hardwood you decide to purchase, it is sure to add value to your home and will last for many years to come.
Thanks
The Floor Man

The Floor Man

New Blog

Castillian Hardwood

Lumber Liquidators Warranty Information

Market Conditions and the return of "Floor Man"

Top ten flooring questions to ask a retailer

The Bar

Hardwood flooring Suppliers....US vs. China and others

Flooring Issues

Hardwood Acclimation

New Carpet! Buy Today

Flooring Brand Names

Timeless Textures Birch Butterscotch

Urethane vs. Acrylic adhesives

Du Chateau Hardwood Flooring

Robina Laminate Flooring

The Valinge Locking System

Floor of the month

Choosing a carpet

Selecting a hardwood floor

Selecting a laminate floor

Rotary peeled vs. Sawn Faced veneers

Rubber Flooring by Amorim

American Walnut

Forest Accents Hardwood

Nylon vs. Polyester carpet

Floor of the month April 2009

Luxury Vinyl Flooring

Prefinished vs. Jobsite finished floors

Yarema Marquetry

Mullican hardwood flooring

Ipocork Flooring

Installer Stories

How to install engineered hardwood

Outlet stores

Floor of the Month March 09

Solid Vs. Engineered Hardwood. Which is better?

Going Green

Hardwood vs. Laminate. Which is better?

The Lacey Act

Retail vs. Internet shopping

Installing new carpet

Product warranties

Financing floors

Floor maintenance

Floor preparation

Beware of Bamboo

Floor of the month

Labor Warranties

Water and Wood

Types of Tile

Types of Carpet

Types of hardwood Flooring